Nancy's surfing through life: Adventure, community, and never aging out

🌊 Hi, I’m Nancy

As I turned 64, birthdays seem to be a time of reflection. Sitting at the coffee shop after surfing with my pals, we were commenting on how aging is interesting; in my mind, I am still the same 27-year-old, but the world seems to look upon me differently.

When I’m out surfing with my 25-year-old daughter, we often get comments like “Wow, your mom is out here.” And I’m like – well, why the heck would I not be? OK, my body is not as resilient – a finger fracture and resulting four screws and a plate while surfing in Costa Rica two years ago, back surgery last year – I don’t seem to bounce as well these days.

🏄‍♀️ Discovering surfing & building community

Sports have always been a big part of my life. White water kayaking became a pastime, which taught me to really respect water and how to face my fears. Big water can be terrifying—just like surfing in big waves can be.

I landed in Santa Barbara nine years ago. Not knowing anyone and missing having a tight group of friends, I sought out connections and decided to take a surf lesson with the @saltwaterdivas. I was hooked on day one.

I love having to be present in the moment while surfing—the thrill of catching a wave, and even the failure of trying and falling. I also love the challenge of learning something new. There is really nothing like the feeling of seeing a big set coming, thinking “I’m gonna get hammered”, yet then catching that wave, dropping in, feeling the speed (and not getting hammered).

Through the @saltwaterdivas, I met a great tribe of women. At first, there were four of us all learning together at the same time and all of similar ages. That little group has since expanded.

🌍 Surfing the world & facing fears

Through surfing, I have traveled the world—surfing in Sri Lanka, Ireland, Costa Rica, Mexico, and Indonesia. I’ve made lifelong friends, faced my fears, and had more fun than I can express.

And back to the aging thing – I’m still 27 in my mind. Just because we are getting older, why would we stop doing things we love or trying new things? Let’s connect @N.arkin!